There are many schools of thought when it comes to training for climbing. Some folks spend hours on the campus boardm hangboard and doing pullups on slopers. Others simply just climb… A LOT! Since January I have been training specifically for climbing using a combination of the two schools of thought. Below is a summery of what my training currently looks like. It should be noted that I am an all around climber (bouldering, alpine, cragging, gym, ice, glacier). This workout also helps with Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu endurance and the BJJ itself is a great cross trainer for the antagonist muscles.  I do workout each  2 x each per week alternating. On the other 3 days depending on weather I will either continue rotating of the workouts in part or full or, hopefully, actually get outside to climb, hike, backpack and boulder!

WORKOUT A

Elliptical, 20 Resistance, 1.5 hours

Back Extension Circuit, repeat 3x/no rest
Regular Back extension, 10x w/ 5lb weight
Right Side Extension, 10x w/ 5lb weight
Left Side Extension, 10x w/ 5lb weight

Core Workout Circuit, Repeat 2x/no rest
Yoga Ball Plank, 60sec
Yoga Ball Jack-knife, 10reps
Yoga Ball Crunch, 30 reps
Oblique Crunches, 30 reps (per side)
Feet Up Crunch, 20 reps
Toe Touch Crunch, 20 reps
Bruce Lees, 20 reps
Bicycle Crunches, 20 reps

Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu Training, 2 hours

Gym Bouldering/Route climbing, 2 hours
Including: high touches, feet on campus training, one hand traversing

 

WORKOUT B:

Elliptical, 20 Resistance, 1.5 hours

Back Extension Circuit, repeat 3x/no rest

Core Workout Circuit, Repeat 2x/no rest

Elliptical Intervals, 20/18 resistance, 1 hour

Climbing Workout Circuit (Paired exercises done alternating with no rest)
Assisted Pullup, 30lbs, 10 reps, 3 sets
Side Planks, 60sec per side

Uneven Assisted Pullup, 5 reps per side, 3 sets
Pushups, 10 reps, 3 sets

Heavy Finger Rolls, 50 lbs, 10 reps, 3 sets
Seated Knee Ups, 15 reps, 2 sets

Lat pulldowns, 75lbs, 10 reps, 3 setsBench Dips, 20 reps, 3 sets

Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu Training, 2 hours

 

 

 

 

Finally, a break in the rainy weather and sunshine(for those interested: we are very close to breaking the record the most rainfall in March ever according to Seatac stats). Eric and I decided to check out the climbing at Marymoor Park in Redmond, WA.

Finding the climbing wall is pretty straightforward. After exiting 520 enter Marymoor Park and follow the main road through the park. You will see the climbing Pillars on your left after a few minutes. Currently, it is right next Cavalia’s large white tent, but that will probably get taken down in the next few weeks as the show is ending. We parked a little up the road and paid the $1 fee (be sure to have cash).

The climbing wall is made of textures cement and bricks with climbing holds. I haven’t seen any else quite like it before. The routes are all bolted and require someone to lead up the route with a personal rope and quickdraws. There are anchors at the top of the routes for rappels. The website Free Marymoor has beta, photos and descriptions of the climbing routes and bouldering problems. Eric and I began climbing on the East Face “East Side Route”/5.7. Eric led the pitch and I followed. We both agreed the the ratings at Marymoor are stiff (that is: the 5.7 felt more like a 5.9). We disagreed on the quality of the climbing wall. I was not a fan of climbing on textured cement and felt that if did little to imitate outdoor rock other than the fact that it was outdoors. Eric pretty much felt the exact opposite. You’ll have to visit and draw your own conclusions.

We spent the next few hours climbing Buttress SW “Rainier Arete”/5.10b, North Face “Vertigo” /5.10a and Buttress SW  “Bicycle Warm-up”/5.7. It was quite in the morning, but we began to have company around 1pm and the crowd grew as

the the afternoon wore on. So if you prefer solitude, come early (or probably midweek).

There are two parking lots named Chiwawa. One is off the Chiwawa Valley Road and is for sled dogs. The other off of Chiwawa Loop Road is for xc skiiers. It was a small group for this Mountaineer XC ski trip; just four of us total. We began at about 10:30am on the groomed xc ski trail across the street from the parking lot called the See N Ski. It is a lollipop trail with gentling rolling hills and parallels of the Wenatchee River. The snow had not let up from earlier that morning and the soft flakes created a winter wonderland. See N Ski is the most popular trail in the Chiwawa Sno-Park (because it is groomed unlike the others), but we did not see many people. Not many folks visit this sno-park. They tend to cluster at Lake Wenatchee and Leavenworth tracks. The snow was soft and powdery like the Rocky Mountain type and felt great under our skis unlike the wet heavy snow that had fallen the previous week.

After completing the See N Ski we crossed back to the parking lot and took the Squirrel Run Trail. Another Mountaineer we had run into on the first trail joined us since we were so willing to cut track. Squirrel Run and the longer Flying Loop (which intersects park of Squirrel Run) are both ungroomed xc ski trails well marked by Blue Blazes on the trees. Sometimes we floated easily over the snow… other times we sunk. And sometimes one foot sunk and the other floated! The trail had not been used in a long time so Ken, the trip leader, broke the track which made things easier for us in back. The split off Flying Loop to the Squirrel Run is well signed  so there is little chance of mixing things up. Immediately after the junction the trail crosses a snow bridge over the creek. It is not a difficult crossing, but caution should be taken. The trail parallels the road for several km and then turns into the woods to create a small lollipop before turning back. By this time it was getting late and the temperature had dropped. Eric and I had eating our last food and noon so we were starving (this is why it is bad to pack for trips at 4am… you make stupid decisions). Nevertheless, we arrived back at the trailhead at around 5:15pm. Squrriel Run was reported to be 4km… but I had about 8km.

Exhausted we all headed to Coles Corner to the 59er Diner where Eric consumed his Italian Scramble in a huge hurry! A wonderful day of off and on track xc! Ten miles total.

Sunshine was, one again, a thing of the past we we awoke early this morning in my car. Cuddled in our sleeping bags Eric and I watch snowflakes falling lightly from a cloudy, white ski. By the time we finished breakfast and brought the skis out of the cargo box the snow had intensified and fell thickly around us. We took the trail in the corner of the Kahler Glen Sno-Park lot and entered the forest. Some downy woodpeckers hunting for grubs in the pine trees greeting us as we slide across the freshly laid track. We crossed the street and entered Lake Wenatchee State Park and the Southern system of xc track in the park. The trails are interwoven loops so one can choose a short tour or a longer route. The tracks is mostly flate with some gently rolling terrain, so one can get a few nice downhill runs. We followed the outer-most loop first to the Wenatchee River and then to the shoreline of Lake Wenatchee. The winds picked up and the snow was even thicker so we could barely see across the lake. It was still gorgeous though and we glided along the shoreline before once again entering into the forest. We returned to our car via going through the gold course tracks completing 4 miles. We could have lingered… but we had to meet up with the mountaineers in another nearby sno-park: Chiwawa. So we loading the skis into the car and headed to our next tour.

After 2.5 week of rain in the lowlands and snow in the mountains, the sun finally manged to take control of the skies for a few days last week. On what would be the final day of sunshine, Friday, Eric and I drove my car packed with xc ski gear over Stevens Pass to Kahler Glen Sno-Park near Lake Wenatchee State Park.

Kahler Glen Sno-Park served as a jumping off point to access the South Lake Wenatchee XC Trails via the track that leads directly from the parking lot and the trail systems directly across the street: Nason Ridge the Kahler Glen Golf Course. Our plan was to complete Nason Ridge Loop… we did not realize the trail was across the street though at first so we ended up on the South Lake Wenatchee for about 15 minutes before realizing our mistake. We crossed the street at about 8:30 where a blue sign pointed the way to Nason Ridge. The the track was freshly set and led through the Golf Course and around expensive homes. Each Junction was labeled with the blue sign for Nason Ridge so it was impossible to get lost. There were several places were we had to remove our skis to cross the street.

Once past the houses we skiied straight along the base of Nason Ridge for about 5.5km gaining some elevation. We took the first right onto the trail leading up the the ridge (1500 ft gain). The track had not been groomed in a few days and we had to break trail through about 4 inches of snow. The going was not too troublesome and the views were spectacular as we climbed. The loops traverses in a circle around the ridge and slowly descends… gliding was possible on the downhill potion, though the going would have been much faster if the track was freshly groomed. Note that there are some walls above the trail that can avalanche and we saw rolling snow balls rolling down some of these walls. I would not travel here on a high avalanche day or without a beacon on a moderate day.

It was beginning to get dim by the time we reached the base of the ridge. Back on the fresh track we skied back through the golf course to the parking lot. We completed 18 miles total for the day and reached the car exactly at sunset. We brought out my MSR stove and boiled water for our freeze dried dinner before turning in for a cozy night in my car.