Finding crags in Icicle Canyon usually proves to be quite an adventure and route finding extravaganza. Eric and I were heading to Bob’s Wall known for it’s short but worthwhile crack climbs. I pretty much am pitiful on cracks (I’m more of a slab/friction climbers) and the goal was for me to practice and build confidence. Bob’s Wall is located on the top of Icicle Buttress (a roadside wall). Our book indicated that we had to either climb to the top of Icicle Buttress or climb the climbers trail to Duty Dome Area off to the right and then traverse over to Bob’s Wall.

The trail to Duty Dome is a few yards to the right of Icicle Buttress and is marked by a cairn. It steeping and quickly gain elevation before delivers you to a junction. We turned left toward Fish Wall and passed the crag. The trail grows faint and crosses a wide gulley below Duty Dome. Then it kind of disappears all together more or less. We traversed along an unknown wall with distinctive reddish rock rock. We turned a corner and discovered we were now beside the rock face of Bob’s Wall and on top of Icicle Buttress at last! The approach took about 60 minutes, but probably would have taken about 30-40 minutes if we actually knew where the wall was!

As promised, the Bob’s Wall is full Crack climbs all creatively named “Bob’s # Crack”. I attempted to Lead “Bob’s Forth Crack” 5.7, which is not a ure crack climb. I ended up getting sketched halfway up and had Eric’s lowered me. He lead the route and set up a top rope with the two bolted anchors on the top. The crack is rippley and features some lieback moves. Fun line. Of course I was able to climb it then. The anchors also served two other route so we left the top rope up for me to climb “Bob’s Sixth Crack” 5.6, a doable off-width. Eric top roped “Bob’s Fifth Crack” 5.8+ successfully but with some trouble on the 3-4 feet section of overhung cruxy crack near the top. I was able to make up until the  downhill slopping platform just before the crux crack. Eric mentioned that those moves were harder than any of the 5.10a’s he’s climbed outside thus far. Stiff rating?

By them the sun was shinney with insane intensity. We pulled the rope and headed back down to the car. Time to play in the shade.

Carnival Boulders are located almost directly across the road from 8 Mile Rock at mile 7.4 on Icicle Road. The trail steeply leads up a hill to a cluster of large boulders. I tried to climb “Fen Fin” V0, but kept getting sketched out on the third big move, a high reach Eric completed it without much difficulty. We then moved to “The Stem” V0, a open book problem which we both found to be entertaining. Eric worked on “Butt Surfing” V1 (he said it was more like a V2) and “Heeler” V2. He then sent “Against the Wall” V1+ which features a very tricky start before mellowing out at the then. He also topped out “The Campus Problem” V0.

 

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