Colleen and I decided to climb a Whutza Point in Icicle Canyon due to it selection of intermediate level climbs 5.7-5.10a. The area is located beyond Playground Point, a popular weekend area. We followed the climbers trail to behind the highest tier of Playground Point. Then the trail faded to a goat track which sometimes all but vanished. The bush whacking wasn’t too difficult as we were mostly navigated

only through grassy terraces and some boulder piles. More or less we just headed straight ahead passed the lone Block Party Route. We ran into the the separate short wall with routes “Birthday Greeting” and “Bottle of Whine” a few feet higher than the main wall of Whutza Point first. We located the main wall several yard own and left of this short wall. Mot of the route have a combination of bolts and trad gear.

We began the day on the namesake 100ft “Whutza Point” 5.7 route. The route is mostly friction slab (my favorite) with a few difficult moves mostly near the top of the wall. On the ledge 2/3 of the way through the route there is a large ledge. The rest of the route require the climbers to climb over the top of a large bush to get the the wall. A great warmup. We pulled the rope and Colleen led it as well.

Next we moved over to Zerberts another 5.7. The bottom half of this route was super blocky and I led it efficiently until reaching the last yard or so. It is a thin crack that involved me doing two things I hate: using a crack and putting all my weight on one foot while on a tiny hold. It took me quite a long time to stop procrastinating and finally do the required moves. In the end I didn’t fall and led my first true crack (even though it was short). Colleen led the same route and then set up a top-rope on the next route Indian Burn 5.8 (all routes have chain anchors).

Indian Burn is a sweet friction climb. If we had time we would have led it. But the sun was beginning to beat down on us. We decided to call it for the day as far a roped climbing and headed back down to retrieve my crash pad. I wanted to finished my project.

The Hueco Route V1 which I have written about previously has been bothering me ever since I left in unfinished late April. My first attempt at the route reawakened the moves, but I only got to where I had been last time… two moves below the finish. However, I was not completed wasted and breathing heavy getting up to that point like last month. Colleen gave it a shot and was able to Flash it. I tried again, this time making it to the two Hueco Pockets hold that is the finish. FINALLY!

With that we headed up to the next overhung “room”. Eric had finished a route called Barnacles V1 here. It is a sit start that requires the feet to traverse along the bottoms of the wall in huecos before launching for a high reach crimp. We launched at the crimp for about a hour before finally being able to stick it. Then we discovered that the launch wasn’t even the crux! We did eventually follow the rippling seams and stem to the top out. Fun route. We joined up with a boulderer from Alaska to working out Flounder V2, a very short roof problem starting on slopers Colleen managed to finish it, but at that point my body was done for the day, although I was happen that the sloper holds didn’t give me problems, just the dead point to the jug.

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