Last time I attempted Mount Forgotten it was January. I had to turn back because of the wretched run-out  on the steep snow slope leading down from the Forgotten Meadows. Damien experienced that same thing when he attempted to make the climb several years ago in the winter. This time we came together with a rope and in summer hoping for better luck.

The weather wasn’t exactly stellar. The forecast called for rain and that is exactly we we got. The typical Seattle misty rain pitter pattered over the valley as we walked down the Perry Creek Trail early in the morning. As wet as it was the lack of sun was relief. The creek crossing near Perry Creek Falls was barely a crossing as the water level were extremely low. The trail up to the meadows was in mostly good shape with a few downed logs and a few overgrown parts.

It was clear when we reached the top of the switchbacks that there wasn’t going to be much of view. We couldn’t see the mountain at all! Everything was shrouded in a eerie white mist. We put on our harnesses and helmets in the Forgotten Meadows and easily found the trail that leads down to the right side of the ridge toward Mount Forgotten. This part of the trail is extremely steep as it drops about 200 ft. It is very overgrown in some places and sometimes difficult to locate the trail. If you look though (often though thick brunch) you can find your way. Due to the overgrowth and wet weather we were thoroughly soaked from the branches as we pushed passed them. the trail ascends upward as it traverses the side of the mountain until it reaches a basin on the back side of Forgotten. From here the trail disappears a little as it enters a steep and rocky gully (class 2). The climbing was pretty easy to the top the the gully. The final 300-400 ft the trail reappears and steeply ascends to the summit block(s).

There is controversy over which summit block is the highest. When you turn left at the top of the slope there are some easy 3rd class steps to the first summit. Beyond that summit further left is a drop and then a knife edge class 4 scramble to the next summit. This is why we had brought the rope. We built and anchor with the rope wrapping it around a massive horn on the first summit. I belayed Damien out onto the next summit where he created a hand-line by tying his end to another horn. I clipped into the line with my PA and made the very exposed crossing. There was one big and intimidating step but the rest wasn’t too scary. Crossing back however was more more terrifying and I opted for standing almost on top of the narrow knife edge to cross. Damien found easier steps.

We returned back to the car after a 12.5 hour day completely drenched, cold, shoes with lake in them and tired, but smiling. Suffering during a climb always makes it better!

 

ng down from the meadows to Forgotten.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *